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Rangefinder
Magazine
July 2004
Insight/ On the Cover by Bill Hurter
Not long ago, wedding photography underwent a cultural
revolution, transitioning from the posed and scripted coverage of yesterday
to the free-form, fine art, journalistic treatments that are thriving
today. In a less dramatic and confrontational way, conventional portraiture
has been undergoing similar changes in recent years. While nearly everyone
agrees that the principles of formal lighting and posing are worth preserving
in contemporary portraiture, a like number of people see their customers
rapidly moving away from such traditions. The contemporary portrait photographer
may not even call himself a portrait photographer. Take Australia’s
Giorgio Karayiannis (page 26), for example, who calls himself a “lifestyle
photographer.” His portraits may not even show the subject’s
face. One of his recognizeable images, “Imam,” a portrait
of a holy man, shows only the man’s robes and top of his head,
yet it evokes as much about the character of the spiritual leader as
any conventional portrait could.
Also like in today’s wedding photography,
editorial skills have found their way into the contemporary portraitist’s
arsenal of tools. Peter Steinhauer, in “Portraits, Landscapes and
Visions of Vietnam,” (page 14) uses dramatic, high lighting ratio
portraits to redefine a country of great cultural wealth. Nancy Rica
Schiff (page 44) is fascinated by twins, odd jobs and octagenarians (not
necessarily in that order) and has published books about each topic.
Nancy’s whole photographic style changes with each different group
of people she photographs, allowing the subjects to dictate their own
appearance. Tim Walden (page 8) is a fantastic craftsman, skilled in
the traditional techniques, yet he believes that portraits should “speak”—that
they should convey profound and honest emotion. So he has redefined his
portrait technique to allow for this emotional release. Amy Cantrell
(page 38) started out photographing bands, and now transfers those skills
to her unique style of editorial portraiture. Ed Lilley (page 60), William
and Leslie McIntosh (page 52) Ron Nichols (page 82), David LaClaire (page
86), Rondal Partridge—the son of Imogen Cunningham (page 90), Bruce
Hudson ( page 96) and Ray Bidegain (page 100) are a few of the other
fine portrait photographers featured in this special issue.

PHOTOGRAPHER: Gene Martin
SUBJECT: Dizzy Gillespie
Camera: Hasselblad 500 ELX
lens: 150mm
FILM: Kodak Ektachrome EPN 100
Lighting: Speedotron pack and 24x36-inch Photoflex softbox to the right
of Dizzy. Hair light: Speedotron 102 head with 10° grid; background
light: Speedotron 102 head with 3° grid. Gene employed a second diffuser
on the softbox, a lighting trick that also warms the light source. He
has been known to use up to four diffusers on the softbox.
Background: Neutral gray seamless. A purple gel was used on the background
light per the Dean Collins Chromazones lighting system.
COMMENTS: Trumpet great Dizzy Gillespie holding a an eight-valve toy
horn. Gene’s idea was to photograph him with something very unusual
and out of character—a trick he uses to get his subjects to divulge
some of their personality traits. As Gene tells it, “I came running
into the studio holding this toy horn, gave it to Dizzy, and said, ‘Play
this.’” The scowl is a result of that request. Gene replied, “It’s
a joke!” and the second shot was a huge smile with Dizzy holding
the trumpet in the air. For more information on Gene Martin and his fantastic
images of jazz greats, visit: genemartinphotography.com/.
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